[翻譯] 多肉養護指南（光照，溫度，給水，休眠，盆的大小，介質等等等等）
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The Highland Culture Guide
多肉養護指南
Get the answers to your cultural questions here with our integrated approach. All of the basic elements of succulent cultivation are presented with an emphasis on how to combine them to work for you. It's not just another Do's and Don'ts list.
這是一份綜合性的養護方法論述，你能從中得到大部分問題的解答。本文將從實踐的角度出發，講述如何滿足和利用多肉植物的基本習性，可不是什么簡單的一二三四類指南。
With this guide as a starting point you'll know why you're doing things. With a little experience you'll soon be solving your own problems and growing very good plants.
本文旨在授之以漁，而非授之以魚。只需要稍微結合一下實踐，你很快就能夠自己解決問題，并種出完美的植株。
Contents
目錄
Light And Your Strategy
光線與應對策略
Temperature
溫度
Watering
給水
Dormancy
休眠
Making Changes - Timing
移栽的時機
Growing In Containers
盆栽的要點
Supplies: Mix, Nutrients, Containers
植料，營養，植器
Pests
蟲害
Basic Equipment List
基本裝備列表
Grow Plants Like These!
你的植株能長成這樣嗎？當然！
The fabulous Euphorbia pauliana
傳說中的Euphorbia pauliana
Crassula tecta
青鎖龍屬：小夜衣
Cyphostemma juttae - a true classic
Cyphostemma juttae，永恒的經典
Speak The Language
拉丁語...入門
For many, entering the world of succulent plants and the people who collect and trade in them means confronting the Latin botanical nomenclature used to name and describe this natural world. Don’t be put off by this!
對于很多人來說，進入多肉植物的世界最大的障礙就是用來描述自然世界的拉丁語命名法，以至于在收集和交易植物的時候遇到莫大的阻礙。但不要退縮！
Learning the botanical names of your plants and how to pronounce them is essential to cultivating and building your collection. Abandon the use of common names such as “snake plant” or “pencil cactus” in favor of Sansevieria and Euphorbia. Common names are not unique and will only lead to confusion.
知道你家寶貝的學名和發音規則，對于有志向的愛好者來說是必修的一課。別再提那些俗名了，什么“蛇草”，“鉛筆仙人掌”，你應該叫她們“虎尾蘭”和“大戟”。俗名和植物的品種并不是一一對應的，用起來只會引起不必要的混淆。
All you really have to know is that each plant is a single species or a hybrid of two or more species, and like species are organized into a larger single group called a genus such as Pachypodium. In turn, groups of similar genera make up the plant families such as Apocynaceae which includes the genera Pachypodium and Adenium. Genus and species in that order are used exclusively when referring to any plant. So instead of “Madagascar Palm” we use Pachypodium lamerei or Adenium obesum in place of “Desert Rose”.
通過學名，你能夠掌握每種植物到底是獨立的品種還是雜交品種，并且將之歸到更大的類別，即“屬”里，比如“棒槌樹屬”。當然，具有相似特性的“屬”還會形 成級別更高的“科”，比如“夾竹桃科”，包括棒槌樹屬和沙漠玫瑰屬。屬和品種名組成植物的學名，所以，所謂的“馬達加斯加棕櫚”實際上應當叫做 Pachypodium lamerei，而“沙漠玫瑰”則學名Adenium obesum。
Don’t be intimidated or embarrassed when attempting to pronounce these strange names. Everyone makes mistakes but with a little experience it becomes second nature. To get started you could even watch The Victory Garden on PBS where they consistently use genus and species when discussing plants of all kinds.
當你讀這些奇怪的名字時，千萬別覺得尷尬或害羞。沒有人能一點錯誤都不犯，但只要多練習幾次，你一定能熟悉這些單詞。一開始，你可以多看看《Victory Garden》這個電視節目，里面用的都是很標準的拉丁文學名。
（譯者注：標準的寫法是屬名+品種名，屬名第一個字母大寫，品種名完全小寫，比如Echeveria agavoides，擬石蓮屬東云，這樣寫的通常為原始種，即在自然界中自然地生長的品種。但除了原始種之外，園藝中還有許多園藝品種，又稱栽培變種，是 指根據其園藝特性而人工選育出來的植物。只要是經重點培育的特殊形態，無論來自野外還是花園，都可以被稱為栽培變種。但對于雜交品種而言，無論其是自然產 生還是人工授粉的，一旦通過無性方式繁殖便也被稱為栽培變種。栽培變種的書寫方式比較不一樣，是屬名+（原始種名）+栽培變種名，變種名用單引號括起來， 首字母大寫。如Echeveria agavoides 'Ebony'，烏木，這個寫法代表他是東云的變種，純血統。又如Echevria 'Black Prince'，黑王子。另外還有一個東西叫做雜交公式，如如Echeveria 'Black Prince'=E. affinis x E. shaviana，即黑王子的母本是擬石蓮屬古紫，父本是擬石蓮屬沙維娜，寫在前面的永遠是結子的品種。對于屬間雜交的品種，其屬名是親本兩個屬名的結 合，前面以小寫的x開頭，表示雜交。如xGraptoveria，就是風車草屬Graptopetalum和擬石蓮屬Echeveria雜交屬。）
Light And Your Strategy
光線與應對策略
By far the single most important element for growing quality plants is available light. Succulents need serious natural light. This means a full southern exposure with nothing between your plants and the sun except possibly the window glass or greenhouse glazing. A full southern exposure is one which receives all available light for most of the day. Avoid locations which are blocked by trees or buildings.
毫無疑問，種出完美植株的最重要因素就是光照。多肉植物需要非常充沛的陽光，這意味著南向采光是必須的，而且在植物和陽光之間除了玻璃或溫室覆膜之外最好什么都不要隔。所謂的南向采光，是指全年大部分時候都能享受到全天日照，而且要避免被樹或者建筑擋住。
In a perfect world, your plants would be growing in a blazing southern exposure and receiving 360° light. This would of course mean a perfectly situated greenhouse or an outside location in a frost free climate. Such facilities are impossible for many of us but this does not mean that you still can’t grow first rate quality plants. This is where your strategy is required.
在理想的情況下，你的植物最好能受到南向的充足陽光，且光照要來自360度方向。當然，這就意味著一個位置完美的溫室，或者在沒有霜降的氣候下的露養環境。這樣的要求對于大多數愛好者都不太現實，但也不是說達不到就養不出一流的品相。這時候，一點策略就是必要的了。
Your strategy should be to give your plants the light they need when they need it. The keyword here is when. Most succulents will enter an annual dormancy period and will tolerate less than ideal light during this part of their life cycle.
你的策略就是在植物需要的時候才給她們所需的陽光，時機非常重要。許多多肉植物都有休眠期，在休眠的時候，她們并不要求最理想的日照環境。
If you are growing indoors, the preferred strategy is to move your plants outside during the summer months for optimum light during their growth period then winter them over in southern windows when they are dormant.
如果你是在室內種植，最好是能夠在生長季把她們挪出室外，休眠期則可以放在南窗下。
If you are restricted to indoor conditions year round, you must compromise. Regardless of how good your windows are, you will still be providing light from only one direction and there will be a few plants that will not tolerate less than ideal light. You will have to restrict your collection to those genera which will grow well in your conditions or simply move your plants to better light.
如果你全年都只能受限于室內環境，那就只能妥協了。無論你窗戶的位置有多好，植物都只能受到一個方向的日照，并不是所有多肉植物都能接受這樣不理想的光線的。
If you are growing in a greenhouse or outside in frost free conditions, sufficient light is not your problem. In many parts of the southern and southwestern
如果你有溫室或能在無霜地帶露養，那陽光根本不是問題。實際上，在美國西南部地區，光線反而可能太強烈了，需要給幼小的植物適當遮陰。
Artificial light will keep most but not all succulent plants alive but that's about it. After more than a month or two under fluorescent tubes for example, plants take on a very soft weak look and quickly lose their appeal. Artificial light is best used as a supplement to your winter source if you bring your plants indoors during the winter months.
人工光源確實可以維持大部分（不是全部）多肉植物的存活，但也僅限于基本的存活。舉個例子吧，在熒光燈管下生活了一兩個月的植株會非常軟且柔弱，外形大不如前。補光燈最好只作為冬季室內養殖時的補充光源使用。
These strategies apply to summer growing (winter dormant) succulents. As you will discover, many genera are winter growing (summer dormant) which definitely makes providing sufficient light even more challenging. However it is possible!
當然了，對于那些冬季生長的品種來說，在生長季給她們充足的光源更成問題，但這也并不是不可能的事。
How can you tell if your plants are receiving proper light? Their general appearance will be compact with the distance between the leaves very short. Leaves will also be small not big and floppy. Rosettes of leafy succulents such as Echeveria will be tight while leaves and bodies of extremely succulent types such as lithops will be compact and colorful, not bloated and soft looking.
要如何分辨你的植物是否接受到了充足的光照呢？這就要看她們的外形是否緊湊，葉片間的距離是不是非常短，葉子是否短粗精悍不耷拉。葉子呈蓮座狀分布的擬石蓮等品種應當株型聚攏，生石花等肥厚的品種應當矮壯且色彩艷麗，不能虛胖柔弱。
This is a good illustration of what can happen to valuable plants if not given correct light levels.
這就是一個好品種爛光照的反面教材。
These two Pachypodium horombense are the same age. The specimen on the right has been given proper light while the one on the left is etiolated and ruined from low light. There is no way to reverse the etiolation.
這兩棵Pachypodium horombense年紀一樣大，右邊的享受充足的陽光，左邊的則因缺乏光照而徒長。這種病態的徒長永遠也恢復不了。
Some of the most light sensitive succulents are the Crassulaceae (echeveria, crassula, graptopetalum, kalanchoe, sedum, etc.), Mesembs (lithops, conophytum, etc.) and Apocynaceae (pachypodium, adenium) while some of the least light sensitive are the Liliaceae (aloes, haworthias), many euphorbias, sansevierias, and stapeliads.
對光線非常敏感的多肉植物包括景天科（擬石蓮屬，青鎖龍屬，風車草屬，伽藍菜屬，景天屬等），番杏科（生石花屬，肉錐花屬等）和夾竹桃科（棒槌樹屬，沙漠玫瑰屬），對光線要求沒那么高的則有百合科（蘆薈屬，十二卷屬），許多大戟科品種，虎尾蘭和蘿藦。
There are many factors to consider if you want to grow first rate, truly beautiful plants but by far, providing sufficient light is the most important. There is hardly anything more unattractive or that reflects poor cultivation technique than an etiolated or stretched out succulent. Etiolation is not reversible, unless the subject can be started again from a cutting, so once this occurs, the plant is ruined. Study your conditions and adopt a strategy for providing proper light. There is no substitute.
如果想要養出極品的美麗植株，光照是最重要的。沒有什么比徒長的多肉更能反應種植者技術不合格了。徒長是不可逆的，除非砍頭重新開始。因此一旦徒了，這棵多肉就毀了。好好研究你的養殖環境，務必找出合適的光線供給策略，這是不可替代的。
Temperature
溫度
Most collectable succulents, which includes all the plants you will find on this web site, are not hardy. Although a few Agaves and Sedums might take a few degrees of frost, they will not tolerate freezing temperatures.
許多市面上販賣的多肉植物都不耐寒。雖然有些龍舌蘭和景天屬多少能忍耐些輕微的霜降，卻并不耐凍。
We maintain a minimum of 55° F year round for most plants while keeping our most sensitive species at 60° F.
我們一年四季給植物的最低溫度是華氏55度（攝氏12度左右），一些敏感的品種則維持在華氏60度（攝氏十五度）以上。
Maximum temperatures are usually determined by weather conditions and succulents are well adapted to tolerate temperatures slightly over 100° F. Prolonged exposure to excessive heat usually prompts most plants to simply go dormant and wait it out.
最高溫度則取決于天氣，大部分多肉都能很好地適應華氏100度（攝氏38度）的氣溫。長時間的高溫頂多是讓她們休眠而已。
Many plants can however be damaged by excessive heat and if you are growing in a greenhouse or any other type of solar structure, constant air movement is essential. Hot stagnant air will rapidly damage most succulents.
當然了，過高的溫度還是會損傷植株，尤其是對于溫室等全日照的養殖環境來說，這時良好的空氣流通十分必要。高熱且靜止的空氣會很快置多肉于死地。
Watering
給水
When and how much to water your plants has always been a controversial subject. Far too much complexity has been made of this very basic element of cultivation that we all must practice.
Most importantly, it’s crucial to your development of a sound cultural technique that you realize many elements cannot be prescribed or decided for you. You must observe. Watering is certainly one of these elements and you alone must decide.
澆水的時機和量一直是個有爭議的話題。盡管對于養肉來說這是一個非?；镜囊?，人人必經，但卻非常復雜。關鍵是，澆水需要與你的種植環境和習慣配套，別人的經驗無法硬搬。你必須細心觀察，澆水是那種只有你自己才能幫助自己的事情。
The general idea should be not how much but when to water, and this is largely determined by your environment. If your conditions are good and you are using a quality growing medium, most plants will dry out in just a few days. So as a good starting point use this simple rule: do not let containers become dust dry at any time. It works. Water, wait until the plant uses what you gave it, then water again.
基本上，澆水的時機比澆水的量更重要，而時機取決于你的環境。如果你的種植條件很理想，介質使用得很科學，大部分盆栽幾天內就會干透了。因此第一要義是：永遠不要讓盆栽干到冒煙。真的。澆水，等到植物用光了你給她的水，就再澆。
How can you tell if a plant has used what you gave it? Pick it up. If the pot feels light, water until it appears at the drainage holes. With a little experience, you will quickly be able to tell if water is needed just by looking.
你怎么知道植物用光了水分呢？掂一掂。如果盆很輕了，就澆透直到水從排水孔流出來。只需要一點點經驗，你就可以憑眼睛就知道植物是不是需要澆水了。
Don’t think of watering as an exact science where every drop must be measured. It’s just not that critical. Make sure your plants are well watered and forget it. Yes there are some succulents that are more sensitive to over and under watering but observation and experience will ready you for these.
不要以為澆水是一種精確的科學，以至于每一滴用水都要精密地測量。沒有那樣嚴苛的。確保你的植物有水喝，然后就忘了這件事吧。確實有一些多肉對水分多少十分敏感，但只要多觀察，多積累經驗，你很快就能很好地應付她們了。
When watering, use a good breaker on your hose or a soft rose on your can. This prevents root damage caused from washed out mix. And finally do not push anything into your containers to test the moisture level. This means your finger or those awful dreaded moisture meter probes. Succulents have delicate fragile roots and you will only damage them. Broken roots can rapidly lead to rotted plants from this bad novice habit.
澆水的時候一定要用好一點的噴頭，或者倒水的時候動作輕柔一些。這樣可以防止水流沖掉基質，損傷根部。而且千萬不要為了掌握盆土的濕度而往盆里插任何東 西，包括手指或者奇奇怪怪的別的東西（譯者注：比如牙簽）。這是一個壞習慣，多肉植物的根系十分纖弱，插東西只會傷了根，而受傷的根部很容易腐爛。
Dormancy
休眠
The least understood and most critical time for cultivating succulents is the dormancy or rest period. Most losses occur during or shortly after this time because plants are kept too dry and not monitored. This is the number one reason for failure.
休眠期對于多肉來說是一個危險的時段，對于種植者來說則顯得有些神秘。許多植株都在休眠期間或之后不久死去，大多由于休眠時過于干旱或沒有得到仔細監護。
Dormancy is a fact of life. Plants gradually move into a rest period in response to dropping light and temperature levels. They need this break to stay healthy. Your job is to coast them through it.
休眠是她們生命周期的一部分，當光線和溫度不再適合她們活躍的時候，她們就需要休息一下，以維持健康的狀態。而你的任務則是陪伴她們度過這段時期。
The first sign that a plant is entering dormancy is that it stops growing. Soon after, leaves begin to yellow and drop, rosettes tighten and contract, or for very succulent groups such as mesembs, bodies can pull themselves into the soil and develop a papery covering as protection.
植物進入休眠的第一個征兆是停止生長。然后很快葉子會變黃脫落，蓮座合攏。有些種類的多肉（比如番杏），身體會全部縮進土里，長出一層紙一樣的外皮以保護自己。
In October, the Pachypodium densiflorum (winter dormant) on the left shows the first signs of oncoming dormancy by shedding leaves from the bottom up.
十月份，這棵Pachypodium densiflorum（夏型種）就表現出了休眠的跡象，葉子從底部開始脫落。
The Haworthia cooperi on the right (summer dormant) has likewise begun its resting period but in June. Notice how the individual rosettes have contracted and closed.
這棵Haworthia cooperi（冬型種）在六月的時候會進入休眠，蓮座閉合。
You may not see much happening on the outside, but even in this state, your plants are not just sitting there. Transpiration is still going on and this moisture must be replaced. They need feeder roots to take up this moisture so naturally plants cannot be kept so dry that these roots desiccate and die. This can easily happen to slow growing species and the consequences will not become apparent until spring when growth commences and plants begin to fail. Plants are failing in April and May because of what you did over the winter months. Signs of trouble often take months to appear.
雖然外表上看不出來，但其實休眠的時候植物并沒有閑著。蒸騰作用還在繼續，水分供給不能停。她們的根部需要一定的濕度，所以不能完全保持干燥，否則根系就 會干死了。對于長得慢的品種來說，頹敗的跡象可能要到開春才會顯現。你冬天對她們的所作所為，四五月份就會得到報復了，雖然這種報復可能遲好幾個月才會降 臨。
So how often should you water during the rest period? Again it largely depends on your conditions, i.e. how fast they dry out. If you live where it’s cool during the winter, your plants will rapidly dry from heating equipment being present so one or two waterings per week may be required. If you live in a mild climate, possibly every other week will work. Just water, give them a good dry spell to the point where pots feel light but not dust dry, then water again.
所以休眠期間應該怎么澆水呢？還是那句話，取決于你的養殖環境，即盆土干透的速度。如果你那里的冬天比較寒冷，屋里又有暖氣的話，土很快就會干透了，因此 每周澆水一兩次是合理的。如果你住的地方氣候溫和，也許每隔一周澆一次更合適。要點就是澆水，等水分消失干凈，即盆變輕但又尚未干到冒煙的時候，澆下一 次。
What about the plants that are summer dormant and how should they be treated? Since this group is resting during the warmest time of the year, they will dry out much faster than the winter dormant species and therefore require more frequent waterings. As a starting point, water these every other time you water your summer growers but again, it completely depends on your conditions. During extremely hot weather, they may need water every day.
那夏季休眠的植物應該怎么照顧呢？由于這幫家伙選在一年中最熱的時候睡覺，盆土會比冬天干得更快，需要更頻繁的給水。通常來說，夏天可以每澆兩次夏型種，澆一次冬型種。但還是那句話，這完全取決于你的環境。在特別炎熱的時候，她們甚至可能需要每天澆水。
It’s important to remember that you can’t force your plants into or out of dormancy by withholding or applying moisture. The one exception to this is the mistaken advice one often hears that succulents should be kept completely dry when dormant. In this case they will indeed go dormant but unfortunately it will likely be permanent.
要注意的是，你是不能通過給水量來控制植物是否休眠的。當然了，這里有一個例外，就是那句“多肉在休眠的時候應該完全斷水”。如果你真這么干了，那么她們當然會休眠，而且永遠不會醒了。
To better understand dormancy and its role in your cultivation, you must be aware of when your plants are actually dormant. Succulents can be organized by genus into the two groups of winter and summer dormant with the most popular genera presented in our Dormancy Table. There are a few exceptions for individual species.
為了更好地掌握你家植物休眠的狀況，知道她們什么時候休眠非常重要。根據她們的天性，多肉可以分為夏型種（夏季生長，冬季休眠）和冬型種（冬季生長，夏季休眠）。下面這張表格列出了常見的屬的休眠時間，但個別品種可能有例外。
DORMANCY TABLE
休眠時間表
WINTER DORMANT
冬季休眠，夏季生長——夏型種
This group is generally regarded as the “summer growers”. They have adapted to our northern hemisphere cycle and are dormant from November through February. Many of these will also enter a pseudo rest period for a few weeks during the hottest part of the summer before putting on a final burst of growth in September and October.
這一類多肉長被稱為夏型種，生長于北半球，從十一月休眠至次年二月。但在夏季最炎熱的時候，她們也會進入假休眠，假休眠通常持續數個星期，然后在九十月份再大爆發一次。
Adenia
Adenium 沙漠玫瑰屬
Agave 龍舌蘭屬
Alluaudia 亞龍木屬
Brachystelma
Bursera
Calibanus
Ceropegia 吊燈花屬
Cissus
Cyphostemma
Didieria
Dorstenia
Echeveria 擬石蓮屬
Encephalartos
Euphorbia 大戟屬
Ficus
Fockea 火星人屬
Huernia
Ibervillea
Ipomoea
Jathropha
Lithops 生石花屬
Monadenium 翡翠柱屬
Moringa
Operculicarya
Pachypodium
Pedilanthus
Plumeria
Pseudolithos 凝蹄玉屬
Pterodiscus
Raphionacme 蘿藦屬
Siningia
Stapelianthus
Synadenium
Tillandsia 鐵蘭屬
Trichocaulon
Trichodiadema 仙寶屬
Xerosicyos
SUMMER DORMANT
夏季休眠，冬季生長——冬型種
Usually referred to as the “winter growers”, these genera are dormant during the warmer months of May through August. Their primary growth actually occurs during autumn and spring while slowing considerably during true winter. Many will exhibit marginal growth during the summer months as well especially in the Lily and Crassulaceae families.
通常叫做“冬型種”，這些屬在暖和的時候休眠，從五月到八月。他們的生長季其實在春秋，冬天里生長速度會顯著放緩。許多品種在夏天也會有微弱的長勢，對于百合和景天科植物來說尤為如此。
Adromischus 天錦章屬
Aeonium 蓮花掌屬
Aloe 蘆薈屬
Anacampseros 回歡草屬
Astroloba
Avonia
Bowiea 蒼角殿屬
Bulbine
Ceraria 長壽城屬
Conophytum 肉錐花屬
Cotyledon 銀波錦屬
Crassula 青鎖龍屬
Dioscorea 龜甲龍屬
Dudleya 仙女杯屬
Fouqueria
Gasteria 鯊魚掌屬
Gibbaeum 駝峰花屬/藻鈴玉屬
Graptopetalum 風車草屬
Graptoveria 風車石蓮屬
Haemanthus
Haworthia 瓦葦屬/十二卷屬
Kalanchoe 伽藍菜屬
Neohenricia
Othonna 厚敦菊屬
Pachycormus
Pachyphytum 厚葉草屬
Pachyveria 厚葉石蓮屬
Pelargonium 天竺葵屬
Peperomia 椒草屬
Portulacaria 馬齒莧屬
Sansevieria 虎尾蘭屬
Sarcocaulon 月界屬/龍骨葵屬
Sedeveria 景天石蓮屬
Sedum 景天屬
Senecio 千里光屬
Stomatium
Talinum
Tylecodon
Making Changes - Timing
移栽的時機
When to repot, prune excess growth, take cuttings, or in any way physically disturb your plants is closely related to dormancy. Succulents differ from many other types of plants when it comes to making changes and the last thing you want to do is disturb them when they are resting. Rare slow growing species are particularly senspurneitive and drastic changes can indeed be fatal.
換盆、修剪、砍頭或其他任何物理上改變植物的行徑都必須嚴肅地考慮到休眠的問題。多肉植物和其他很多植物非常不同，休眠的時候不愿意受到任何打擾。一些長的很慢的品種是尤其敏感的，不合時宜的移栽很可能會致命。
When repotting, wait until you see signs of new growth. Shaping or trimming back excess growth is best done right before the growth period. For summer growers this would be March and for winter growers, it means August. Fast growing robust species can usually be repotted or pruned anytime.
想要換盆的話，要看到植物生長的跡象了才能下手。修剪要在生長季即將開始的時候進行。對于夏型種而言，三月是個好時間，對于冬型種來說，則是八月。但有些皮實的品種全年什么時候都可以換盆或修剪。
Growing In Containers
盆栽的要點
Cultivating succulents in containers is vastly different than other plant groups. Using the right size pot has a huge effect on the appearance of any plant. It’s a natural tendency to want to give your plants plenty of root space in the mistaken belief that this will make them grow better or faster. In fact it has the opposite effect as most succulents will slow to a crawl. Many slow growing rare species stop altogether because they just don’t like sitting in a large volume of moist mix. Most experienced growers eventually rethink how they pot and abandon the urge to overpot.
盆栽多肉和盆栽其他植物很不一樣。植器的大小是否合適對于對于植物的外觀有很大影響。常見的誤區是，你想要用大盆給植物根部充足的生長空間，以為這樣她們 就能長得又快又好了。實際上則正相反，許多多肉在這種情況下反而會放慢生長速度。一些長得慢的稀有品種甚至可能會完全停止生長，因為她們就是不喜歡呆在這 么多潮乎乎的土里。許多老道的種植者都已經在反思這個問題了，并放棄使用過大的植器。
When repotting, go up only ? inch in pot size. For larger plants in 5 inch or larger containers, you can safely increase in one inch increments. If you use a container that is too large, the roots will grow out of proportion to the rest of the plant and most of the growth energy will be channeled to the branches and leaves. One look at a plant with a large crown of thin branches and floppy leaves usually reveals a container that is too large.
換盆的時候，盆的尺寸只要增加0.5英寸（1.27厘米）就夠了。對于那些5英寸（12.7厘米）以上的大盆而言，1英寸（2.54厘米）的升級也足矣。 如果你用了過大的植器，根部與植株其他部位的生長會不成比例，導致能量都被花費在分枝和葉子上。有些植株的樹冠過大，枝干細弱，葉子軟榻，一眼就能看出來 是用盆過大。
The right size container makes a big difference when repotting.
植器的大小對植株十分重要
The Cissus tuberosa on the left has been kept in the same 3 inch pot for 4 years and has developed a nice caudex. The plant on the right was started at the same time from the same size cutting but over potted in a 4 inch container.
左邊這顆Cissus tuberosa躺在3英寸（7.62厘米）的盆里有四年了，他長出了一個壯碩的莖部。右邊這顆和左邊的來自同一顆母本，同時切下來的，但一開始就種在了4英寸（10.16厘米）的盆里。
When repotting, disturb the roots as little as possible. Usually the root ball will come out intact in one solid piece. Leave it this way and do not attempt to crush or spread it out like you would for a tropical. This will only set the plant back and can quickly lead to fatal root rot. Also do not put old pot chards, gravel, or anything else in the bottom of your container. This will actually promote root tip decay. Simply use a piece of screen wire to cover the drainage hole.
換盆的時候，要盡量避免損傷根系。通常，根部會緊抱著土壤，形成一個球狀。就讓她這樣吧，別像對熱帶植物一樣還要把土都扒拉掉或把根系整理分明，這只會讓 植株狀態衰退，也很容易導致要命的爛根。也不要把舊盆土或者碎石等墊在盆底，實際上這會讓根部的尖端頹敗。簡單地用網線（紗窗，防蟲網）蓋住排水孔就夠 了。
Supplies: mix, nutrients, and containers
植料，營養和植器
MIX - mix is a term used in the horticulture trade for growing medium and is always a controversial subject. Exotic formulae and wildly conflicting advice abound and it’s difficult for the newcomer to sort it out. Using a quality mix is absolutely vital to growing superb plants and you shouldn’t think of it as just “dirt” you put in the container along with your plant.
植料——植料是園藝里面對種植介質的叫法，它的選取一直很有爭議。那些稀奇古怪的配方和自相矛盾的建議總是讓新手們一頭霧水。想養出漂亮的植株，好的介質十分重要，不要以為你放在花盆里的只是所謂的“土”而已。
Is it better to buy commercial mix or make your own? The answer is clearly in favor of commercial products. Note that we are referring to professional products and not consumer type mixes like the generic “cactus soil” you might find at the discount store. The manufacturing of growing medium is complex and technical and is best left to specialized industry. If you choose to make your own, keep in mind that there are many issues to consider for which most of us are not prepared.
是買商家配好的介質，還是自己配好呢？當然是商家配好的了。請注意，我們這里說的是專業的產品，而不是市面上打折店里賣的什么“仙肉土”。制造植料的工藝很復雜，最好還是留給專業廠家去做。如果你想要自己配植料，請記住有許多問題都是我們通?？紤]不到的。
There have been great advances in the last 15 years in commercial growing medium and the trend is definitely toward soilless mixes. These come in a variety of formulations with the composted bark being the best. Few growers today use soil based medium as the results realized with soilless mixes are so outstanding.
最近的15年里，商業販賣的介質有了長足的進步，并朝著無土化發展。這些植料的配方多種多樣，其中混合樹皮是最好的。現在已經很少有人用園土配的介質了，誰叫無土植料那么好用呢？
Simply stated, soilless mixes are based on the matrix concept which is nothing more than a given volume of semi-uniform size particles which provides for maximum growth. Nutrients are then added as fertilizer in solution or incorporated dry into the matrix. The matrix is a carefully constructed blend of composted bark (not landscaping bark), horticultural grade peat (not more than 20%), perlite (baked pumice), vermiculite, and a buffering agent to adjust and stabilize pH. It contains no field soil or aggregate whatsoever.
簡單來說，無土配方的基質是一些大小均勻的顆粒，以保證植物的健康生長，然后再以溶液或固體的方式添加養分。基質中科學地混合有腐熟的樹皮（不是作景觀用 的樹皮），園藝級的泥炭（不超過20%），珍珠巖（烘烤過的輕石），蛭石，以及用于調整土壤ph值的助劑。里面不含有任何園土或集料。
Two important physical characteristics to consider for any good mix are drainage and weight. One common myth surrounding the notion of what constitutes a proper mix for succulents is the idea that all moisture must absolutely drain away very rapidly leaving no excess, and consequently no reserve, so as to avoid failure from rot. You may indeed avoid root rot with a super fast draining mix but you will also avoid normal growth as your plants will slow to a glacial pace. A good mix must make both moisture and nutrients available and one that drains too rapidly lacks this essential function.
評價基質是否優秀的兩個重要標準是透水性和重量。傳說中，好的多肉植物介質必須能夠讓所有水分迅速排干，不保水，以避免根腐。你當然可以照此選用干的特別 快的介質預防爛根，但這樣也預防了植物的正常生長，排水性過好的介質會讓你的多肉長得像冰川移動那么慢。好的介質要保證一定的濕潤度和營養，干的太快的達 不到這樣的標準。
The very worst mix is a heavy mix and should be avoided at all cost. For roots to develop and function properly they need oxygen for respiration. A quality mix will allow oxygen to enter and carbon dioxide and other gasses to escape and therefore must be light in weight. Good respiration is essential for a large vigorous root system and general plant health.
非常重的基質不好，應當不惜一切代價避免。根部的生長和作用需要呼吸，呼吸需要氧氣。好的介質能夠讓氧氣進入土壤，讓二氧化碳和其他廢氣排出，因此重量上會非常輕。良好的呼吸是發展出強大且健壯的根系所必須的，也是維持植物健康所必不可少的要素。
A heavy mix will simply suffocate roots and is usually one which contains aggregate of some sort which should be avoided. Common aggregate used includes sand, gravel, turface, and pumice. Agricultural pumice is used to some degree in the southwestern U.S. as a growing matrix because it is readily available. It is very warm in this region and plants grown in this media will dry out at a sufficient rate but in a more temperate climate, such as the northern and eastern U.S., pumice is much too heavy and soggy. This is because it has an open-celled structure. Superior results are obtained with perlite, which is closed-celled, over pumice.
沉重的介質會讓根部窒息，通常都是集料，必須加以避免。常見的集料包括沙子，碎石，蒙脫石和輕石。園藝輕石作為種植介質在美國西南部用得比較普遍，因為觸 手可得。這些地區的氣候炎熱，種在輕石里的植株會干得足夠快。但對于氣候更加溫和的地區，比如美國北部和東部，輕石就太重、太保水了。輕石的結構中空，易 儲水，相比較起來珍珠巖就好得多，它的結構閉合。
A major problem for the hobbyist grower is finding a source for soilless mix. A small number of well stocked garden centers do have them for sale but a good alternative is to inquire at a local commercial greenhouse business. The owners are usually dedicated plant lovers and will be more than willing to supply you with a bag or two.
對于業余愛好者來說，找一種合適的無土介質很困難。有些庫存充裕的園圃倒是會賣植料，但最好還是問問本地的商業大棚。這些大棚的主人通常是資深的植物愛好者，一般還是很愿意賣給你一兩袋的。
These mixes are formulated for greenhouse crops grown in containers and when used for succulents need to be slightly adjusted with perlite. A good starting point is three parts mix to one part perlite. You will not be changing the basic design of the mix but do not overdo the perlite. Never add other ingredients such as soil or aggregate which will defeat the entire soilless concept.
他們的介質是為溫室盆栽設計的，用在多肉身上需要加一點珍珠巖。可以試試用三份介質加一份珍珠巖混合。你無需改變介質的基本配比，也不要加太多的珍珠巖。千萬別再加其他成分了，比如園土啊，集料啊什么的，否則就會破壞無土介質的概念了。
A constructive way to think about your growing medium is that it should provide some margin of error in watering. One often hears such mistaken advice to the effect that what works for one could be disastrous for another. A quality mix will perform well in a variety of conditions. If you experience frequent plant losses, you may want to consider another mix no matter how good you think your current one is. Go slowly when making changes. Experiment with just a few plants you are familiar with and observe results.
關于種植介質還有一個創造性的思維，那就是要給澆水留出一定的容錯率。人們常聽到不同的環境需要不同的介質這種說法，但其實好的介質不管在什么條件下都是 好的。如果你家植株經常意外死亡，你就得好好反思一下自己的介質是不是有問題了。改變介質的配比要一步步來，先拿幾株植物做實驗，直到你熟悉了各種材料的 使用效果。
NUTRIENTS - it’s essential to provide nutrients in some form during the growing season and then taper off to none when your plants are dormant. A constant low dosage balanced water soluble fertilizer every time you water (constant feed) is preferred.
營養——生長季里提供一定的營養是必要的，然后逐漸降低養分供給，到了休眠的時候就不要施肥了。最好是能夠在每次澆水的時候混合一些可溶性液體肥。
Use a good commercial brand such as Peters and avoid hobby or gimmick type products. Quality fertilizers can be found at most garden centers and come in many formulations. A general purpose 20-20-20 or
肥料要選擇靠譜的商業品牌，比如Peters，不要用假貨和便宜貨。好的肥料通常在園藝店有售，有許多不同的配方。對于多肉來說，20-20-20或者 20-10-20的配方都挺好用。還有一些肥料里面添加了微量元素，是專門為無土介質設計的，很有用。如果你選了每次澆水時施薄肥的方法，每次用四分之一 的標準濃度就夠了，這樣能夠提供50ppm的氮。如果你施肥的頻率較低，那就調整到更高的濃度。
An alternative to water soluble formulations is resin coated time release fertilizer. This is incorporated into your mix or applied as a top dressing and lasts for a specified time. Excellent brands are Nutricote and Osmocote in 13-13-13, 180 day formula.
每次澆水施薄肥的方法還有一個替代品，就是緩釋肥。緩釋肥可以埋在介質里或者灑在土表，其作用可以持續一段時間。比較靠譜的牌子有Nutricote和Osmocote的13-13-13,180天配方。
Not all succulents need feeding. Many groups become soft and unhealthy if added nutrients are applied and look best if grown lean. These include most of the Crassulaceae (echeveria, crassula, sedum, graptopetalum, etc.), almost all mesembs (lithops, etc.), and senecios.
不是所有的多肉都需要施肥。許多品種施完肥會看起來軟塌塌的，不健康，不如長在貧瘠的介質里的樣子。這些品種包括大部分的景天科（擬石蓮屬，青鎖龍屬，景天屬，風車草屬等），幾乎所有的番杏科（生石花等）和千里光屬。
CONTAINERS - it’s important to use the correct size container as explained above but should you use plastic or terra cotta? Many consider this an aesthetic decision but there’s more to it.
植器——就像前面說的，合適的植器大小十分重要。但到底是用塑料盆還是紅陶盆呢？許多人認為這只是單純的審美問題，其實遠非如此。
Plants simply grow better in plastic containers because more moisture is available. If you are growing in terra cotta (clay) pots, you will have to water 3-4 times more often because they dry at an alarming rate. This is especially true for small sizes.
植物就是在塑料盆里長得更好，因為塑料盆更保水。如果你用紅陶盆，那就要比塑料盆多澆水三至四次，因為紅陶盆實在干得太快了，對于小盆來說尤為如此。
Most growers use plastic for 6 inches and smaller and terra cotta for over 6 inches and this works well. Also you will get a more developed better root system with round pots rather than the square design. Most importantly, all containers must have a bottom drainage hole.
很多種植者在需要6英寸（15.24厘米）及以下的盆時用塑料盆，6英寸（15.24厘米）以上則用紅陶盆，這個方法很管用。另外，圓盆里的根系會發育得比方盆里的更好。最重要的是，所有的植器都必須有排水孔。
Pests
蟲害
Fortunately succulent collections are not attractive to most pests. Fungal and viral attacks are seldom seen so it’s usually just insects that must be kept in check. Plants and insects are natural companions. If you have plants then you’ll have insects. If you discover an outbreak of some insect pest, there is seldom reason for panic. Your job is simply to keep insects under control. You will never eliminate them completely.
幸好，多肉植物不算太招蟲子。真菌和病毒感染也鮮有發生，因此只要好牢牢地監控蟲害的狀況就好了。植物和蟲子是天生的好基友，只要你有植物，勢必就會有蟲子。如果你在植株上發現了某種蟲子，千萬不要恐慌，只要把蟲害控制住就好了，想完全祛除蟲子幾乎是不可能的。
By far the most common and persistent insect succulent growers must face is the ubiquitous mealybug. There are several species of it but it’s the citrus or greenhouse mealybug that is attracted to succulents. Adults are about one eighth inch in size and have a white mealy epidermis. They bear live young (crawlers) in white cottony masses on the underside of leaves and in cracks and crevices especially on soft new growth. They exude a sticky sugary substance which is greatly attractive to other insects such as most ants which will then transport the crawlers to other plants. Keep ants in check and you automatically control many other insects.
目前為止，多肉植物上最常見、最牢固的害蟲要數無處不在的粉蚧了。粉蚧有許多種，喜歡多肉的通常是桔粉蚧和greenhouse mealybug。它們的成蟲約有八分之一英寸（三毫米）大小，白色粉狀外皮。它們的幼蟲會在葉子背面形成白色絮狀物，還會再柔弱的新生葉子上見縫插針。 它們會分泌一種黏糊糊的蜜液，吸引很多其他昆蟲前來把它們的幼蟲搬到別的植株上，比如螞蟻。注意螞蟻的出沒，這樣你自然就能監視到別的蟲害了。
Succulent enemy number one is the common mealybug. An infestation can quickly get out of control such as the one building on this Cyphostemma hardyi. Look for them on the underside of leaves, on new growth, and on flowers. You will often have hundreds of tiny crawlers that are less than one millimeter in size that cannot be seen with the unassisted eye.
粉蚧是多肉的頭號大敵，一旦感染很容易大面積爆發。小心注意葉子的背面、新葉子和花。如果不仔細看，你很可能會錯過上百個細小的幼蟲趴在那。
Mealybug is easy to control and is seldom fatal unless left unattended. Mites, scale, and white fly are occasionally attracted to succulents, pose a more serious problem, and are difficult to eradicate. Mites, which are not true insects, are voracious sucking pests and are attracted to hot dry conditions. A poorly ventilated greenhouse full of underwatered plants is prime territory. Scale and white fly are very persistent and difficult to eliminate unless caught at the right time in their life cycle. Volumes of information exists on these pests and a little research on your part will go a long way in identifying and controlling them. The internet and your county extension office are excellent sources for help.
粉蚧很好控制，只要不是放在那不管，它們很少致命。螨蟲、介殼蟲和粉虱偶爾也會看上多肉，造成更大的麻煩，而且很難去除。螨蟲其實并不是昆蟲，它們喜歡吸 食植物的汁液，常出沒于炎熱干燥的地方。如果通風不好的溫室里面有許多缺水的植株，那簡直是它們的天堂了。介殼蟲和粉虱很頑固，除非能夠在它們生命周期的 特定時段下手，否則很難根除。關于這些蟲害的防治有很多資料，只要自己稍下工夫就能夠很好地辨識和控制了。網絡和當地農業技術人員是很好的求助對象。
EASY EFFECTIVE CONTROLS - rubbing alcohol on a Qtip will render the odd mealybug or two harmless but what about several badly infested plants with hundreds of tiny crawlers embedded in the delicate growing apex? Try blasts of tap water applied with a Fogg-It nozzle on a trigger type hose shut-off. A few minutes of pulsating blasts of ordinary tap water worked in very close in all the difficult to reach places will render just about any plant squeaky clean. It will even clean off badly encrusted scale which is a very difficult job.
便捷的蟲害控制手段——棉簽上沾些酒精能夠無害地祛除少量的粉蚧。但嚴重感染的植株上面可能趴著好幾百只小蟲子，尤其 是在生長點附近。這時候就試試沖水吧，用那種可以調節的噴嘴和帶開關的軟管。幾分鐘近距離的脈沖式自來水沖刷足夠把大部分植株的里里外外洗干凈了。這種辦 法甚至能移除長著該死的蠟質表面的介殼蟲，通常它們可是很難趕走的。
A FOGG-IT nozzle is a great tool for cleaning plants. It means business and works wonders for insects, weed seeds, and even spent leaves.
Combine it with a trigger type shut-off and you have a deadly weapon to use on insects.
可以調節的噴嘴是給植株洗澡的利器，無論是對付昆蟲、野草還是枯萎的葉子都藥到病除。再配上一條帶觸發式開關的軟管，在蟲害面前你將無往不勝。
Fogg-It nozzles are inexpensive and available from hobby greenhouse suppliers and good garden centers. Use the blue 4 gpm heavy volume size. You could even improvise with the kitchen sink sprayer but outside with the garden hose is usually more practical. This may sound a bit too simple but try it and see how effective it is.
可調節的噴嘴并不貴，任何園藝用品店里都能買到。選那種藍色的4加侖每分鐘的大功率產品。你甚至可以用浴室噴頭救急，但用橡膠軟管的更常見一點。也許這聽起來過于簡單了，但只要試一試，你就知道有多管用了。
CHEMICAL CONTROLS - if things are out of hand and you are dealing with many badly infested plants, chemical controls are sometimes necessary. The number one rule is absolutely do not, repeat do not, use petroleum based products on succulents. These are usually labeled “liquid” this or that and are designated “EC” or just “E”. The petroleum base in EC’s will severely burn succulents so avoid them at all costs. Systemic pesticides have become popular but the concept of making the entire plant toxic creates personal exposure problems beyond what many growers consider safe.
化學防治——如果事態失去控制，你不得不同時處理好幾棵嚴重感染的植物，化學處理就是必要的了。首要法則是永遠不要， 再重復一遍，永遠不要對多肉使用石油化工產品。這些東西通常標著“液態”這個或那個，寫著“EC”或者就一個“E”字。EC化工產品會嚴重灼傷多肉植物， 嚴禁使用。內吸式殺蟲劑最近很流行，但讓整株植物變得有毒會讓養殖者也暴露在化學農藥中，很多養殖者會覺得不安全。
Most wettable powders and water based or aqueous suspension insecticides can be used on succulents with no phytotoxicity. But again what product to use for what insect requires a little homework on your part. A recommendation from the garden center or a friend won’t do. Always go slowly when trying something new. Never apply an untested chemical to your entire collection. Do a controlled application to just a few test plants instead.
許多可濕性粉劑和水基懸浮劑殺蟲藥可以安全地用在多肉植物上。但到底用什么則取決于蟲害的種類，這個就得靠你自己多做功課了。光是聽園藝店或者朋友的建議是不夠的。在嘗試新產品的時候，要逐步地來，永遠不要把沒試驗過的農藥用在你的全部家當上。先用幾株植物試試再說。
Finally if you are an active collector who frequently acquires plant material from many sources, then it’s inevitable that you will bring in new insects. A good hand lens or loupe of 6x-10x therefore becomes a necessity for inspecting new arrivals and your collection up close and personal.
最后，如果你是個很狂熱的收集者，總是從不同的渠道購進植物，那你的藏品會不可避免地經常帶來新蟲子。手持式放大鏡或6-10倍的放大鏡是必須的，這樣你才能更好地一一檢查新入門的和舊有的植株。
Basic Equipment List
基本裝備列表
WATERING - A good watering device with a soft breaker is essential. A simple hose or watering can with a rose type breaker is fine. We prefer a bonsai watering nozzle on a hose with some sort of shut-off to regulate flow. A bonsai nozzle is a super soft breaker fitted to a short wand and is available from most sources that sell bonsai tools.
澆水——推薦用水流溫和的澆水設備，但軟管或澆水壺也湊合。我們喜歡用能夠調節水流的軟管和盆栽專用的噴嘴，這種噴嘴帶一個短棒，能夠制造非常溫和的水流，許多園藝用品點都有賣。
TWEEZERS - A pair of thin 7"- 9" tweezers is invaluable. Again bonsai type tweezers are best.
鑷子——一把小鑷子是無價之寶，園藝專用的鑷子當然更好。
MAGNIFICATION - A closeup lens of anywhere from 4x-10x is basic. From a simple magnifying glass to an optically superior photo loupe, magnification is essential for controlling pests and studying your plants.
放大鏡——4-10倍的放大鏡就夠了，無論是簡單的放大鏡還是光學顯微鏡都可以，這是控制蟲害和研究植物的必需品。
LABELS - It's important to label each plant with genus, species, acquisition date, and source. When you lose one of your favorites, you at least have a chance of replacing it with this information. Lead pencil on vinyl labels is as permanent as we have found. Solar exposure quickly renders other materials to compost.
標簽——給個植物標注上科屬、品種、購買日期和來源很重要。如果你不幸失去了某個真愛，憑這些信息你至少還能再入一盆。鉛筆寫在塑料標簽上的字能夠保留很久，陽光會讓其他材質的標簽模糊掉。
POTTING - A good potting tray and trowel are most helpful. A large restaurant busing tray is great and is readily available from any restaurant supply. We like one that holds about a cubic foot of mix.
移植工具——好的托盤和鏟子非常有用。餐館用的那種大個托盤非常好用，而且隨便哪個餐館里都能搞到。我們喜歡用那種剛好能裝下1立方英尺介質的型號。
POTS - Keep a good supply of pots on hand. Whether you prefer plastic or terracotta, a nice selection in half inch increments is always in demand.
植器——要隨時有靠譜的渠道買盆。無論你喜歡塑料盆還是紅陶盆，以每半英寸（1.27厘米）直徑為間隔，每個大小都要備一點。
